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11 Ways to Save Big on a Trip to Japan

The mention of Japan always seems to invoke the same response in uninitiated travelers – “But, isn’t it expensive?” No, no and no again. Japan is often, unfairly, pegged as a budget-busting destination – a reputation that could be discouraging for frugal wanderers. However, like any trip abroad, Japan can be as cheap or expensive as you make it, so here are some ways to make any stay in the land of the rising sun noticeably friendlier on the wallet.

Seek out Daiso shops

Otherwise known as the 100 yen ($1.20) store, Daiso is a word every traveler needs to add to their vocab. Unlike a typical Western discount outlet, Daiso is big business in Japan, which means stores are competitive, well-stocked and offer decent-quality goods. This is excellent news for visitors, as literally anything from a new bag or alarm clock to candy and souvenir dinner sets can be had for almost nothing. Daiso is characterized by its rainbow-colored signs and shop assistants shouting ‘Irrasshaimase!’ (welcome) every few seconds – literally.

Stay in a capsule hotel

Once the territory of burned-out businessmen too drunk or late to make the last train home, capsule hotels are shaking off their once-seedy reputations to become low-cost but immaculately clean and efficient accommodation options. Although smaller towns have yet to follow suit, there are now mixed-sex capsule hotels in cities such as Osaka and Tokyo, although male and female dorms are typically on separate floors. A night’s stay can range between 2,500 and 4,000 yen ($30 and $48) and complimentary extras include toothbrushes, razors, pajamas, towels, lockers and even communal hot baths.

Sleep in an internet café

This may sound bizarre, but those who are willing to go even cheaper with accommodation or are stuck for a place to stay before a weirdly timed flight can wile away the twilight hours in an internet cafe. Surprisingly intimate and designed for overnight stays, visitors will typically get a walled-off booth lit by UV lights, complete with a high-backed leather chair. If falling asleep proves difficult, you can always catch up on emails/Skype calls, or even order food and read a comic. Some dedicated establishments even offer showers and lockers to guard your valuables while you catch some Zs.

Dine on kaiten sushi

The Japanese phrase for ‘conveyor-belt sushi’, the kaiten option seems like it was designed for budgeting adventurers. Not only are these counter-based eateries ideal for cheap breakfast, lunch or dinner, they also provide a trial-and-error insight into Japanese table manners. Take cues from families, students and office workers while trying startlingly fresh fish, regional specialties, cakes and Western-influenced sushi, topped with mini hot dogs and tomato sauce. Plates are usually color-coded and range from 100 to around 500 yen ($1.20 and $6) for specialties such as cod roe and whale. Stick to restaurants with low prices advertized – for example, those in department store food courts – as up market examples can be seriously pricey.

Eat at traditional-style chain restaurants

Although chain outlets in Japan incorporate the likes of McDonalds, Burger King and KFC, there are others that serve traditional food at good prices – an option that lends itself particularly well to semi-adventurous types. These include Shirokiya and Wara Wara, which serve up items as diverse as yakitori (meat on sticks) and ramen (pork and noodle broth) to fries and bowls of buttered sweet corn. As non-native speakers soon realize, the picture menus offered in these places are extremely useful, as pointing and nodding transcends language barriers. Gyu Kaku, branches of which can also be found in most cities, is even more interesting and social, allowing diners to cook their own food over a grill in the middle of the table. Signs for these chains are brightly lit, noticeable and feature English translations.

Opt for nomihodai and tabehodai deals

Travelers on the lookout for cheap food and drink need to learn these two simple words, which translate respectively as all you can drink and all you can eat. Whereas this would be a fierce free-for-all buffet situation in Western countries, the concept of nomihodai in Japan is a more laid-back affair. Many izakayas – cozy local bars that serve food – and karaoke chains, will have a nomihodai offer in place, which means buying time rather than quantities. For example, 1,500 to 3,000 yen ($18 to $36) will buy you one hour of drinking and/or eating, although terms and prices vary between establishments.

Rent a karaoke booth

Although the primary reason for renting a karaoke booth is to belt out tunes with friends into the early hours, there are other extras to be taken advantage of. Ask at the front desk for nomihodai (see above) and selected drinks will flow freely for an hour at a reasonable set price. Additionally, all booths receive waiter service and include menus, massive TVs and comfortable sofas lining the walls. It’s also not unheard of for people to spend the night in a booth to save searching for a hotel. However, it is important to note that the larger chains (such as Big Echo) can be seriously pricey, so stay local and ask for a quote first to feel the cost-cutting benefits.

Make Yodobashi Camera your own free “museum”

It’s easy to spot a first-timer in Yodobashi Camera, one of Japan’s most iconic and popular stores. They will be standing agape with an aura of pure excitement, completely bewildered by the cool gadgets in every direction. Although primarily known as an electronics store, Yodobashi sells almost everything, with the toy section being ideal for cheap and bizarre souvenirs and the home section presenting the chance to try out cutting-edge massage chairs and exercise machines. On the top floors, the food courts have an array of eateries selling filling dishes for next to nothing. As if this wasn’t enough, show your passport with its three-month visa stamp and receive a tax discount on your goods.

Invest in a JR Rail Pass

Prices for the Japan Rail (JR) travel pass may seem expensive at first glance. However, people visiting for two weeks or more who plan to visit multiple cities will find a rail pass much more cost-effective than a wallet full of individual tickets. This is because, barring internal flights, the shinkansen is simply the fastest and most comfortable way to get around the country, but several small journeys really add up. For example, a seven-day adult pass is currently 28,300 yen ($340), while a return ticket from Tokyo to Nagasaki is 24,980 yen ($300). Also, passes cover JR buses, coaches, ferries and slower local trains and there are regional variations available.

Eat well for less

In Japan, it is not necessarily in high-end restaurants that travelers will have their best culinary experiences. Fresh, great-quality snacks and even full meals in lunchboxes (bento) can be bought for less than 500 yen in 7-11, Lawson, FamilyMart and most grocery stores. Bakeries, such as Trandor and Vie de France also offer up some very tasty but cheap delights and even Mr. Donut serves free coffee refills and thrifty set meals. However, if you want freshly made hot food, street stalls and local diners are a surefire winner. Eating this way will ensure that travelers get to sample famous regional foods, such as okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, Takoyaki in Osaka and ramen in Fukuoka, in a social atmosphere at a low price.

Crash hanami

Hanami, April’s cherry blossom festival, is not only a great sight for foreigners in general, but is also paradise for budgeting wanderers. For the space of about one week, each city in Japan celebrates the blooming of cherry blossoms by sitting under trees and socializing with friends, family and work colleagues. Buy some food and drink and head to a popular blossom-spotting space – such as Tokyo’s Ueno Park, Hiroshima’s Peace Park or Fukuoka’s Ohori Koen. Locals may well extend an invitation to visitors to join in their revelries, which could result in a friendship or at the very least, a better knowledge of Japan’s traditions and a day to remember. Offer your food and drink around, as generosity and respect are paramount.

Finally, the most important thing to remember is that Japan’s best sights – its electric cityscapes, bizarre vending machines, fashion-crazy teenagers and stunning parks and temples – are all free anyway. Don’t let the excuse of expense keep you from one of the most astounding countries in the world. Enjoy!

Book Review: The Lost Girls

Pre-school, kindergarten, grade school, middle school, high school, college (and maybe grad school), career, marriage, kids, grandkids, and then retirement. Who hasn’t felt, at some point, like they’re on a conveyor belt and stepping off – even for a second – would forever derail their life?

Of course, if it were as easy as: girl feels lost in life, girl set out to travel, goes lots of great places and eats lots of delicious food, girl falls in love and all ends happily after after, there wouldn’t be a book. Oh wait…yes there would, only it would be called Eat, Pray, Love. This is not that book.

Instead, Holly, Jen and Amanda put themselves into sometimes uncomfortable situations, they take some wrong turns and make some bad decisions, they don’t always get along and they face some heartbreak. They don’t end up “finding themselves” but as they say, instead they learn that sometimes it’s okay to just be lost.

Overall, I really enjoyed this book. I could certainly relate to the girls’ feeling of being lost in life. By my mid-20′s I felt like I’d already committed to a path in life, and to deviate would mean starting all over, or at least backtracking, in my progress towards adulthood. I’m sure it’s a feeling many others have had before as well. But as I learned, and as the girls demonstrate in their book, it’s okay to change your path; it’s even okay not to have a path at all.

The book is a great beach read or a perfect travel book (despite its large and heavy hardcover size) that will help pass the hours on a plane, bus or train. It’s well written, but I wouldn’t put it in the category of fine travel literature. It’s light and frothy and fun and more about the personal journey of three friends than a detailed travelogue that explores different countries and cultures. The first few chapters can be a bit tricky. The point of view alternatives between the three friends throughout the book, and it takes some time to get acquainted with the personality of each girl (especially because there isn’t much change in tone between writers) and her unique personal situation. But after a few chapters, I had no problem keeping the girls straight in my mind and found that each one had personality elements with which I could empathize.

It was fun and entertaining to follow along with the girls as they made their way from the party hostels of Brazil to a volunteer camp in Kenya to an ashram in India to the beaches of Southeast Asia and finally to end of their journey in Australia. Along the way I got a small glimpse into the life of a traveler visiting each of those places. I also felt a bit like I was the silent fourth girl on the trip, journeying alongside my friends. Aside from the message of the book, I think what I appreciated most was the story of friendship and the way the three girls interacted, supporting and even pushing one another along their way.

While the book didn’t offer any life-changing revelations for me, I can see its message as inspiring for others. As the girls say, “there’s one thing we know for certain: uprooting our lives to take an unconventional detour was one of the most challenging things we ever did, but the experiences taught us that getting lost isn’t something to avoid, but to embrace. The only leaps of faith you’ll ever regret are the ones you don’t take.”

Top Ten Travel Articles of 2010

Here are BootsnAll, we publish at least one travel article every day, Monday through Friday. The amounts to hundreds of articles that – we hope – teach you something new about the world, help you travel better, and inspire you to feed your wanderlust with travel. As is popular at this time of year, we though it was fitting to take a look back at 2010 to see which articles our readers seemed to connect with most.

From a rundown on the drinking customs of cultures around the world to an interview with badass traveling foodie Tony Bourdain, here are the most popular BootsnAll articles of the past year.

10. How to Get Drunk Around the World: 5 Countries & Their Drinking Rules

We believe that sampling the local drink is a great way to get to know a culture. Writer Lucy Corne agrees and takes us on a trip though five different countries, including South Africa, Australia, and Spain, and shows us the ins and outs of local drinking customs. From why you should watch how you phrase a drinking invitation in Spain, to what to expect when sharing a drink in South Africa, here’s what you need to know to avoid a drinking faux pas.

>> Read How to Get Drunk Around the World: 5 Countries & Their Drinking Rules
>> Check out more BootsnAll articles on drinking

9. The Real Cost of Traveling the World Like Rolf Potts

This past fall, travel writer Rolf Potts went on a six week round-the-world journey without so much as a backpack. Carrying everything he needed on his body, Rolf proved that you don’t need to bring a lot of stuff to have an epic trip. While some of us may not be able to fathom a trip without luggage, many would-be round-the-world travelers think it’s the lack of money that’s holding them back. Adam Seper crunched the numbers on the No Baggage Challenge and then showed us how much it would cost to do the same trip on a backpacker budget. Hint: it’s cheaper than you think!

>> Read The Real Cost of Traveling the World Like Rolf Potts
>> Check out more BootsnAll articles on round-the-world travel

8. Why It’s Not Crazy for Working Professionals To Quit Their Jobs and Travel the World

Long-term, round-the-world travel can only be done the summer after high school or college. Any working professional would be crazy to leave behind the stability of a job in order to travel. You’ll miss out on too much and your career will never recover, right? Wrong. Adam Seper dispels these myths and more and makes the case that taking a break to travel won’t ruin your career (but will add more resume-worthy skills), is not dangerous, and is most certainly not crazy. Unless, of course, you redefine crazy. As Adam says, “To us, not quitting our jobs and traveling the world was crazy. Doing it seemed logical.”

>> Read Why It’s Not Crazy for Working Professionals To Quit Their Jobs and Travel the World
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Check out more BootsnAll articles on career break travel

7. World Cup Host Countries 1930-2010

World Cup fever took over in 2010, especially at the BootsnAll offices, as some staff got to go to South Africa to report on the games for our World Cup blog. We took a look back at some of the World Cup host countries, important moments from games held in each one, and how you can travel to each host country now.

>> Read World Cup Host Countries 1930-2010
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Check out more BootsnAll articles on South Africa

6. 8 of the Most Unique Walking Paths in the World

Hiking trails and walking paths around the world allow us to see a place from ground level, get in some exercise while we sightsee, and take in some spectacular views. Jeanine Barone takes us on a tour of some of the most unique of these paths in the world. From the trails over wooden boardwalks that traverse some of Plitvice Lakes National Park’s 16 lakes in Croatia to a four mile path over towering coastal cliffs in Iceland’s Westmann Islands, these paths will surely make you want to lace up your hiking boots.

>> Read 8 of the Most Unique Walking Paths in the World
>>
Check out more BootsnAll articles on walking and hiking

5. 13 of the Weirdest Bars in the World

Another alcohol-related post, this one examines not what we’re drinking and how, but where we’re drinking it. Victoria Brewood shows us 13 unusual places to knock one back. From Sweden’s Icebar to the Hobbit House in the Philippines to a bar inside a tree in South Africa, these watering holes offer a lot more than your average corner bar.

>> Read 13 of the Weirdest Bars in the World
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Check out more BootsnAll articles on weird and unusual places around the world

4. Best Architecture Cities in the World

Architectural marvels have always been high on the list of must-see sights. Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Chicago’s Willis (Formerly Sears) Tower, and the Colosseum in Rome are among the most iconic buildings in the world, and the cities they reside in are among the best places to see architecture at its most magnificent. Betsy Mikel takes us on a tour of these and other cities that she says are the best for those with a passion for manmade structures.

>> Read Best Architecture Cites in the World
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Check out more BootsnAll articles on art around the world

3. Eat Your Way Around Madrid

The popularity of this guest post proves just how much our readers love to learn about good food and local cuisine. Writer Lindsey Ford extols the delights of Madrid’s cuisine and tells us where (and how) to eat some of these signature dishes. Warning: it’s hard to read about the city’s famous jamon, churros, croquettas, and other culinary wonders without getting a little drool on your computer.

>> Read Eat Your Way Around Madrid
>>
Check out more BootsnAll articles on dining and cuisine

2. 13 Famous Bridges Around the World that You Can Climb or Walk Across

Whether they be engineering marvels or iconic images from a city skyline, bridges have always fascinated. In this article, BootsnAll’s Cristina Dima shows us bridges we can not only see from afar or while zipping over in a car, but those that we can take the time to truly examine and admire while slowly walking or climbing across. Including Australia’s Sydney Harbour Bridge, Prague’s Charles Bridge, and the Tower Bridge in London, this list spans the globe from the US to Japan to Turkey, stopping twice in Italy for two of the most romantic bridges, the Rialto in Venice and the Ponet Vecchio in Florence.

>> Read 13 Famous Bridges Around the World that You Can Climb or Walk Across
>>
Check out more BootsnAll articles on Italy

1. How I Travel: Anthony Bourdain

The culinary world’s king of snark made time to answer a few of our burning questions in what was by far the most popular article of 2010. From the travelers who inspire him to his favorite destinations to how he handles jet lag, we got a little glimpse into mind of Tony Bourdain.

Ten Experiences Not to Miss in Turkey

Turkey is a land that is so varied and in constant contrast with itself that it can be hard to ever truly understand, but to get a start there are many sites that can give a flavor of the country’s unique mix of history, culture and natural wonders. In traversing this country from west to east the traveler will see astonishing differences in cultures and ways of life. From the modern, cosmopolitan capital to the eastern outposts of Sanliurfa and Van there is a world of difference. Even the otherworldly natural sites are still filled with remnants of human history and are so diverse it is hard to believe they all fit in one country.

The ancient treasures of Istanbul

As the sun begins to sink below the horizon and the sky turns a deep blue, loud speakers attached to the minarets of mosques all around the city come to life to the blaring wails of the call to prayer. If you are standing in the right part of town you can hear these songs floating on the night air seemingly calling back and forth to each other from three or four mosques at once.

To stand in Sultanahmet Park between two of the world’s most impressive ancient mosques, the Aya Sofia and the Sultanahmet, and experience the call to prayer is an experience that will stay with you forever. These two massive buildings are at the core of Istanbul’s ancient city and are two of its most impressive places to visit. Although the Aya Sofia (also known as the Hagia Sophia) no longer does a call to prayer as it is now a museum, it is still an incredible monument. Inside you will find uncovered frescoes and converted religious symbols from its past. The monument started life as a Christian Cathedral and was then converted to a mosque before becoming a museum.

Across the plaza is the equally impressive and still operating Sultanahmet mosque, which is better known as the Blue Mosque for the blue hued tiles that cover the inside of the enormous structure. As a still active religious site, there are more rules to be followed when entering the Blue Mosque. You will be required to remove your shoes (bags are provided) and women will be asked to cover their heads (scarves are also provided). It is also recommended that you dress modestly and cover up as much as you can.

After these two religious shrines, there are several other must-see sites of Istanbul, all of which come with their own extensive history. Close behind the Aya Sofia is Topkapi Palace. Its sprawling grounds are an incredible proof of the lavish lives of Ottoman emperors, especially in the immaculately preserved harem, where the sultan’s concubines lived. Here you will also find many ornate artifacts and great examples of Ottoman architecture. These three sites all sit within a short walk of one another and are just the very beginning of the wonders of Istanbul.

Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling Festival in Edirne

The sun beats down heavily on the backs of fifty men who take high leaps, skipping across a field of long grass, slapping their knees in the air. A thumping drum beats and shrill horns play constantly. The men, covered in a slick coating of oil and wearing only shin-length leather pants pair off and at once engage in fierce combat. The crowded stadium erupts with cheers when some of the most popular wrestlers win their bouts and slowly the field is paired down to just one match of exhausted hulking men. With its end comes the end of the first round of the heavyweight class of an ancient festival.

This is how the main event of the 648th Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling tournament kicks off. The event, the world’s longest running sporting competition, is held annually in Edirne, a small city on the European side of the country, and attracts thousands of visitors from around Turkey and Europe. This odd and historical tournament is surrounded by a festival that consumes the city for a week. On the final three days, the wrestling tournament takes place and after the final bout a head wrestler is crowned.

Seeing greased up men in leather shorts try and pin each other in a field may not be everyone’s ideal vacation, but even still, the Kirkpinar festival and tournament is a truly authentic and unique event. In addition to the wrestling tournament, which all takes place at a stadium on the edge of town, the downtown area offers music concerts, fireworks, a parade and many other activities.

The Travertine pools of Pamukkale

On arrival into the small town of Pamukkale, it is almost impossible to miss the town’s main attraction. Overlooking the town is the strikingly beautiful white ‘cotton castle,’ as the name means in Turkish. The attraction is made from calcium deposits that seem to flow like melting glue down a large hill towards the town. As you approach the hill and begin to climb, you see that it is in fact covered in a thick layer of white limestone that has been slowly added to over centuries as flowing water from the hot pools above deposited more and more bits of calcium.

Since becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988, people are no longer allowed to walk over or sit in the naturally formed pools, but there are still wooden boardwalks that take you around and over some of the pools, which gives a great view without damaging the fragile site.

What adds an extra level to this already spectacular natural site is the cultural interest it also holds. Perched on top of the hill are the ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis. Here are the impressively intact remains of many stone structures, including a huge necropolis (city of the dead) filled with carved stone sarcophagi. There is also, of course, the quintessential roman amphitheatre, and some intact streets and gates. This city drew people to it even in ancient times for the supposed healing powers in the hot baths which people can still enjoy today.

The ancient city of Ephesus

If you have ever wondered what your life would have been like if you had lived around the time of Jesus Christ and you don’t currently own a time machine, then your best bet is the ruins of the ancient city of Ephesus. It is one of the world’s best-preserved examples of an ancient city and boasts some incredible structures. The most iconic is the facade of the Roman Library of Celsus.

Whether or not you get a tour of the grounds, be sure to stick around close to closing time. At this point you can explore the city in the low light of the late afternoon virtually by yourself, at least by comparison to the hoards of tourists that can be there during the day. At this time of day, walking down the large stones that make up the ancient main road toward the dusty brown two-storey library, you feel like it could be any period in time. It would be easy to believe you were walking down the main thoroughfare of Ephesus when it was flourishing city during the height of the Roman Empire.

Between the modern town of Selçuk and Ephesus are the remains of what was once one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Now only a few pieces of foundation and a single reconstructed pillar are all that is left of the once great Temple of Artemis, which was built and destroyed and rebuilt many times between 550 BC and 391 AD. Unfortunately, most of the best artifacts from this temple now lie in the British Museum. Around Selçuk there are several other impressive things to see, especially for people of Christian faith. The ruins of what was once the massive St. John Basilica are all that surround the remains of what is believed to be Saint John the Apostle, and the House of the Virgin, a modest stone chapel, sits on the site of the house where the Virgin Mary died.

The Mediterranean Coast

Turkey has 1577km of Mediterranean coastline, yet still isn’t always recognized as a coastal beach destination. While not on the same level as Italy or Greece when it comes to tourist infrastructure, Turkey offers the same pristine coastline and turquoise waters as more popular destinations.

A fantastic way to experience and enjoy the gorgeous Turkish Mediterranean is aboard a Turkish Gület, a wide, heavy, flat bottomed, wooden sail boat that can navigate the shallow channels along the coast because of its lack of a keel. There are dozens of options for starting and ending points for these cruises, but most will begin or end in either Bodrum, Marmaris, Fethiye or Demre.

Along the way there are many interesting and picturesque sights to see, which will be different with every boat’s itinerary. One town not to miss is Kaleköy, a tiny town clinging to the side of a rocky hill that comes right down to the water’s edge, is accessible only by boat and some small walking paths, and is crowned by the well-preserved ruins of a Byzantine stone fortress built on the top of the hill and overlooks the blue green waters of the bay.

For people looking for just a sandy beach and clear water, Ölüdeniz would be the spot. With a gorgeous white sand peninsula jutting into a secluded bay of calm blue water, this is the perfect Turkish Mediterranean beach. For those looking for beaches with a little more excitement, the tourist hotspot of Bodrum is the place to go, with packed pubs and clubs lining the beach-front streets in the summer months; this is the spot for Turks and foreign tourists to party by night and enjoy the sun and sand during the day.

Mount Nemrut

At the peak of the 2150 meter Mount Nemrut is one of the most spectacular monuments of the ancient world. On the top of the mountain sits the massive burial mound of King Antiochos I of Commagene and on this sits five seated statues on both the eastern and western faces. The eight-none meter high bodies are intact while the heads have all succumbed to the years and now lie on the ground in front, still displaying remarkable detail and craftsmanship. These statues, which are of Apollo, Tyche the Commagene god of fertility, Zeus, Antiochos I and Heracles, are joined by several smaller lion and eagle statues. This burial mound and the statue-covered terraces are considered by some to be the eighth ancient wonder of the world.

Cappadocia

Perhaps Turkey’s most impressive and famous site outside of Istanbul is the otherworldly landscape of the region of Cappadocia.

In Cappadocia, wherever you look, even underground, there is history and creative uses of the land. Some of the best places to find this is in the underground cities, which were built to protect the locals from both the elements and persecution from the Roman Empire. Some of these extend down to eight levels underground. Only a few of the largest underground cities are available to visitors who can see the conditions up to 10,000 people would endure for up to four months. Extending high above ground are similar defenses in the form of fortresses dug into tall steep sided hills.

The easiest place to see the curious buildings dug into the landscape is at the Open Air Museum where, for a fee, you can explore a small, partially restored village filled with modest homes, and small churches covered in gorgeous frescoes. However, if you have a bit more time you can explore the trails around the town of Goreme, where you can find abandoned homes and churches scattered through the countryside.

Sümela Monastery

For a monastery built into the vertical rock face of a mountain hanging hundreds of meters above the valley floor, Sümela Monastery near the northeastern Black Sea coast, is surprisingly easy to access. Inside the monastery the main attraction is the high cavernous main chamber of the rock church, which has been dug directly into the mountain and is covered in colorful frescoes which date from the 18th century.

The monastery was founded in 386 AD and has undergone dozens of additions and reconstructions over the years, but took its current form during the 13th century. Outside the main monastery is a spring that is considered sacred by Orthodox Greeks and large stone arches that form an aqua-duct which supplied water to the monastery. The monastery is very accessible, as an hour long minibus ride takes you from nearby Trabzon to the mountain, followed by a short path hike to get to the building itself. Some of the most impressive views of the monastery come on some of the stops the bus makes on the way up, as this affords you an opportunity to see the monastery from a distance in its lush valley surroundings.

The Ottoman town of Safranbolu

The small tourist town of Safranbolu is almost like a large working historic park. In the 1970s the town was falling into a state of disrepair and decay, but luckily for visitors, the Turkish government recognized it for the architectural and cultural gem that it is and began an extensive repair and recovery effort which culminated in the town being added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1994. The town has been expertly refurbished back to its former Ottoman era glory, and walking down the narrow cobblestone streets between red roofed buildings gives visitors a glimpse into Turkey’s history.

Artisans who still practice Ottoman era trades are encouraged to move into the small shops, and Ottoman food is available all over town. The town isn’t just for show though; the shops and outdoor market are also for the locals, who are very proud of the town’s history and architecture. The town provides visitors with the unique opportunity to stay in style and live like a wealthy Ottoman as many of the era’s mansions have been converted into hotels and guesthouses, some of which are very affordable.

The ghost town of Kayaköy

This town of 2000 to 3000 people was abandoned in 1923 after the Greco-Turkish war because of mandatory population exchanges between Greece and Turkey. There are many opinions as to why people never moved into the vacated homes, one of the more interesting being the rumours about the outgoing Greeks poisoning the town’s wells. A more practical reason is that the town’s location on the side of a hill was well suited for the craftsmen Greeks who had lived there, but was useless for the Turkish farmers of the area.

Beneath a layer of dust in the abandoned chapels of Kayaköy you will still find colourful frescoes and delicate tile work. There are very few visitors to the town to disturb the dust, so much of the time you will find yourself alone wandering through crumbling and roofless stone cottages and cracked empty churches for hours. Even by the road at the bottom of the hillside town there are only a few vendors and restaurants to take away from the ambiance of the eerie ghost town.

The true wonder of the ghost town is just in walking its dirt paths and overgrown stone staircases to see a frozen tableaux of a different time, just left to be reclaimed by nature. There are still many visible artifacts left of the Greek culture which once thrived in the town. The bits of colorful paint, intricate stone work and crumbling frescoes are in constant danger from the elements and local looters who remove and sell the town’s artifacts.

Sea Creatures And Soju Shots: A Korean School Dinner

Before we had hit the interstate the first calls for “one shot” rang out in the back of the bus. Seated at a makeshift table next to the highly revered principal of the school, I looked at the clear liquid petrol sloshing in my small shot glass, took a deep breath, and swallowed down any reservations along with the soju. Instantly, the fluid took control of me, burning every inch of my throat on its way down to my very core, rattling me into a cold spasm reaction.

Nearly two months had passed since arriving to teach English in rural Korea, my first time living abroad, and they had been months filled with bouts of isolation, confusion, exhaustion, and excitement. Even the simplest of daily errands required Goliath like mental strength. The intricate and complex script and language loomed over my head, while the lack of human interaction weighed on my shoulders.

Shots of Korean soju are accepted as dinner arrives

“Kon bae!!” and more drinks were poured to kick off the annual ‘Jumbong Elementary Staff Friendship Trip.’ Bewildered as I set my glass down, it was soon explained to me that this custom of teacher dinners occurs monthly. Since this was my first trip with the school, the friendship committee selected a special restaurant on the rocky coast of the East Sea, a two hour drive away.

Inside the coach bus, over thirty staff members from the school sat beneath an attempt at disco era, dimly lit colored lights. The men were privy to the rear of the bus, where the final six rows of uncomfortable bus seats were arranged to face each other around a small table. The women mechanically settled in, two by two, for a nap in the less social seats towards the front.

Korean drinking etiquette involves pouring and accepting drinks as a sign of mutual respect. The routine throughout the bus ride consisted of some yelling and a group shot, followed by snacking on dried squid and slices of pork ankle meat. A person would then volunteer to graciously fill up the principal’s glass and the exercise would begin again.

Giant vats of what will soon be dinner

Dusk was settling down upon a dimly lit parking area when we finally rolled to a stop. The staff disembarked the bus, falling in line towards a staircase taking them up the side of what looked like an abandoned warehouse.

Entering in an alcohol induced haze, I maneuvered around the bedroom sized tanks of eels, reservoirs holding every kind of fish, vats everywhere overflowing with mollusk creatures. My eyes were assaulted by the myriad of sea life in one building, and the organized chaos of the knife-wielding workers.

“Dinner?” I asked a fellow teacher, pointing to an aquarium busy with intertwining eels.

“Delicious,” was the reply, and we headed upstairs.

I staggered into the restaurant to be greeted by more raised glasses pointing in my direction from the staff. Six shot glasses were shoved in my face, and a chorus of, ‘kon bae,’ from all the staff. I grabbed a glass and unleashed what I thought to be a ‘cheers’ to the crowd. I was met with a roar of approval as I dropped the shot down my throat, and settled my numbing body in at the dinner table.

Six plates of beautifully presented sea creatures and raw fish were brought to the restaurant from the market below, and set out in front of me. A fully functioning crab rested on the first plate, snails in full armor steamed on another, and closest to me held what looked like slivers of a thick, goiter pocked skin, dribbled with a clear, viscous fluid. My neighbor’s eyes opened wide at this. He quickly bypassed several plates to grab this entree and slurped down its liquidy contents.

I leaned to my left, nudged my fellow teacher, Mr. Science Kim, my name for him to differentiate between the vast number of Mr. and Mrs. Kims working at the school. Concentrating every ounce of energy to move my lips, I asked, “What do you call all of this?”

In alcohol improved English, he began, “This is snail of ocean, this crab. I show you how to eat. Here, I believe, cuttlefish. This, I don’t know, but delicious. Halibut, and ah… Do you know blower fish?” He blew air into his full cheeks making it instantly recognizable.

“Puffer fish?”

“Yes, yes. Only a little bit poisonous, not to worry.”

“That fish is poisonous?” I said trying to come to terms with the impending meal.

Appearing out of thin air, the waitress dropped what looked like a camping stove in front of me. My eyes fixated on the worn black knob of the contraption as my head tilted from side to side trying grasp, both what I was to do with the only cooker at the table, and how to properly operate it in my present state.

“Can I help you?”

I glanced up to see the tell tale black baseball hat with the superman logo, Superman Kim. A genuine smile spread across his face, he stretched his hand out in my direction. Up until now, I had thought of him as merely the energetic fourth grade teacher that made sure his class arrived to English class on time.

Guiding me through the process of drunkenly cooking a sea smorgasbord stew, we spoke in English, mine fluent and natural, his surfacing despite a cloak of shyness and lack of confidence.

“Koreans are very shy, that is why we don’t speak to you. But we are very curious.” He paused, reflectively, “Soju is a good English teacher.” We laughed.

“Much, better than I am, I think.”

Between tossing clams in the boiling pot, he shared pictures of his newborn daughter on his phone. Flipping through the pictures, he paused, a faraway look in his eyes. “Oh, she is so cute. My dream.”

“Superman, I want to pour you a shot. What is the Korean word for respect?”

“There is a Korean word – we say ‘Jung.’ Its meaning is hard to describe. When we first meet people we have a duty of respect, almost like a brother. We will help you. We will take care of you. It is our pleasure.”

“Gamsa hamnida (thank you), Superman, I have much jung for you.”

“Mr. Wick, you are a good ambassador for America. I hope you enjoy Korea enough to do the same for it. Kon bae.”

Leaving the restaurant at the end of the evening, weakened by endless amounts of soju, we threw our arms around each other, partly out of necessity, but more so out of respect.

Travel Predictions for 2011

I’m adding my hat into the ring for this year’s Travel Predictions. I’ve already read a ton of prediction blog and article posts for 2011 in areas from finance to homemaking to travel. Now here’s my take on travel for 2011.

1. Oil prices will rise

They are already at or near 90 bucks a barrel at the time of writing, and they’re just going to go up. What does this have to do with travel? Well, airplanes run on oil. Higher oil prices = higher airfare prices. I think at some point in 2011, prices will continue to rise to the point that airlines have lots of trouble making money. They’ve recovered a bit from the 2008 oil spike, but my take is it will be short lived.

2. Priceline’s stock price will go down

PriceLine’s stock price will finally stabilize, and probably go down. This stock and company went from just under 200 bucks per share to over 400 in 2010 – double the value. If I were a stock market operator, I’d short this mother. It’s a great company, don’t get me wrong.; they are producing cash and a fair amount of it. But the momentum players will stop shooting it up in 2011 and the valuations will come back down to earth. (They are around 45 PE now, Expedia is 16; PCLN will revert to historical mean over time is the prediction.)

3. Social and mobile will continue to go bonkers

Every year for the past five or so, we’ve seen social and mobile interactions with travelers and people that are traveling increase. I suspect the same will happen in 2011. Am I a genius for this prediction? No. Good friend Stephen Joyce says the same thing in this TNooz Pieceon Travel Predictions.

4. TripAdvisor will be the ongoing kings of SEO

Our friends at TripAdvisor are the kings of travel SEO and are the undisputed winners in the SEO madness that has taken over the web (hey, we are part of the madness as well, I don’t deny it). TripAdvisor will continue to win the travel SEO wars. As Google migrates to more and more brand oriented searches, and expanding their own empire, TripAdvisor and their 20+ full-time SEOs (I met one of the 20 or so SEO’s from TripAdvisor at Pubcon this year) will lead the pack in all your travel oriented searches. Last I heard TripAdvistor did 500 million in revenue with 250 million in net profit in the past 12 months. These folks run a serious business, much of it, based on SEO/search and they will continue to dominate.

5. Social media and travel will continue to meld

A few years ago, I noticed that most folks in the internet cafe and travelers were logging into Facebook on their trips and sharing information via the Zuck. That trend has continued bigtime. Facebook has 600 million users(on their way to a billion), their attention, and their preferences. Facebook and/or more start-ups are attempting to leverage this social graph to help plan your trip. Our pick is Portland-based start-up Second Porch. These folks make it dead easy to find vacation homes as well as rent yours out ,if you have one, through your social graph. My prediction is that they will “kill it” in 2011 and beyond.

6. Twitter and travel will become even more closely tied

In my opinion, Twitter equals one word: chaos – wonderful and blissful and frustrating chaos. Travelers that have the time can mine the chaos of it. There is gold in Twitter, just finding it quickly is the challenge. We developed a Travel Twitter app in 2009, but never launched it because it just wasn’t ready for prime time. But from what I can see, no one has nailed a travel twitter app as of yet. 2011 will be the year that someone does. (Not saying it’s us – we don’t have the time!)

7. Rail travel will increase

As oil prices surge over 2011 and beyond, rail travel will increase, especially within Europe. The deregulation of rail in Europe in January 2010 will just start to bear fruits for the consumer in 2011. There will be more options and better prices on some rail routes. Early indications of this deregulation are evident on sites like Italia Rail.com. Check out this booking engine and power that the consumer has by booking tickets for 15 and 30% off and providing an e-ticketing environment. Bye-bye paper tickets! Glad to see the rail industry finally catch on.

8. Travel blogs will increase exponentially and travel blog niches will increase and become more defined

In the next year we’ll see more and more and more and more of them. Every year, there are more of them. Someone is leaving corporate life for an RTW trip or Career Break and bragging about it on Twitter and a custom-designed WordPress Blog nearly every day. We’ve been watching this trend and been a part of it for over a decade now. It will continue as more and more folks do this sort of trip, and share it in an online media environment.

We’ll also see continuation of this niche trend with more travel blogs serving smaller and more niches. There is so much competition for “travel.” It will lead to more niche travel blogs making good. This prediction is just a continuation of this ongoing trend.

9. Rolf Potts will keep challenging our ideas about travel

I predict we will do another RTW oriented challenge with Rolf sometime in 2011. Not the No Baggage Challenge done again, but a new trip that helps us and other travelers think about indie travel and re-connect with why it is so important.

10. BootsnAll will launch some exciting new products

We’ve been at it for 13 years. We’ve done some neat things, and we screwed up many times as well. And the past few years we’ve changed more than perhaps the previous 10 years combined. We’ve launched the BootsnAll Writers Platform in May 2010, we went to a full virtual office in November 2009, and we’re in the process of launching two new products in Q1 2011. One is a re-launch of an old brand (stealth), and one is a totally new product that the web and travel has never seen before. So I’ll predict that on that “totally new product” (also stealth) – that we launch it no later than Q2, and some people will care, some won’t, but the people that need and want it will salivate over it much like we are as we build it.

11. Travel bloggers will keep fighting for attention from advertisers

Gary Arndt of EverythingEverywhere will continue to lead the charge for Travel Bloggers with the “We don’t get any respect” message. Gary’s site and audience has grown and with it, his opinions about why advertisers should spend more with him and other bloggers. This trend of travel bloggers wanting more spend will continue. Large brand advertisers will continue to largely ignore the travel blogger except through Ad Network buys.

12. More travelers will think about turning off technology on the road

I’ve seen this trend start already – so it’s not much of a prediction. The glamour of being connected all the time everywhere is losing it’s lustre and novelty for many people that are traveling. More and more travelers will look to disconnect with Twitter, Facebook and their blog while they travel – a digital cleanse of sorts, having an experience that they can be present in, versus reporting every detail through every channel. I’ve met at least three travelers that I’ve had in depth conversations with in the past month who are using travel as a time to disconnect from social media, versus being constantly connected.

The Great American Railroad Trip

Recently I became obsessed with America’s most underrated industrial achievement, the Transcontinental Railroad. With its completion in 1869 in Promontory Point, Utah, the dream became a reality and the entire continent was was conquered by rails. For the first time, one could cross the country from coast to coast quickly and safely, without need of a horse covered wagon and one year’s provisions. This feat opened up the western frontier to all manner of European dominion, including trade, immigration, and tourism, for the first time. In fact, in 1910 when my grandparents arrived fresh off the boat from Sweden, they blew right through Ellis Island, and took the train all the way to that glorious land of milk and honey, California.

Today, the train has been relegated to a secondary place in our society. With the advent of jet and automobile travel, he train has been carelessly forgotten, cast aside and accused of being old fashioned, slow, and expensive. This barbaric desertion breaks my heart, and I feel a need to champion the glories of transcontinental train travel for a new generation of travelers. Are you a traveler that shuns the ordinary, that savors the beautiful, and embraces the unknown? Then read on, friend.

As a native Sacramentan, my journey across the nation by rail would bring me east, back in time, to the heart of the original colonies of America. I only knew that the train was calling me toward the rising sun, but my father had business in Washington D.C., and his proposal to accompany me to the capital was well received, and accepted. We would travel from the capital of California, the Western terminus of the Transcontinental Railroad, to the D.C., 3,000 miles away.

The trip from Sacramento would pass through Gold Country and the Sierra Nevada mountains, Salt Lake City, the Rockies and Denver, The Great Plains and the Mississippi River, Chicago, Cleveland, and Philadelphia, finally ending in D.C. some 76 hours later. For the journey, one can choose tickets in the very affordable coach seats, the petite Roomette, or the more spacious Bedroom with private bath. My father, while quite adventurous like myself, tends to travel a bit classier than I do, and so opted for the most commodious of accommodations, the price of which also includes all meals in the Dining Car as well as 24 hour service from a gracious porter. We would make this journey in the style of kings.

To prepare for the three days to be passed entertaining ourselves idly on the train, we packed our various reading materials, card games, electronic devices, and about six liters of wine and port. Just the essentials. Thus outfitted, we boarded the train at high noon in Sacramento.

Life on a train, crossing the country at the human and enjoyable pace of about 60 miles per hour, is not unlike life in a very pleasant retirement community set on top of flanged iron wheels. Each morning one rises to see the sun coming up over some new and foreign landscape, hundreds of miles having been traversed while sleeping. Breakfast is served in the Dining Car at your leisure by cheerful staff that know every passenger’s name by dinner the first day. After a few hours of diverting yourself in whatever manner you choose, generally gazing happily out of the huge windows in the Lounge Car, one can take one’s lunch. After lunch, one is free again to mingle with other passengers, write memoirs, enjoy the scenery, read, celebrate happy hour as the sun sets, or perhaps have a nap, until one is called again for dinner, at whatever time you have reserved your place. Subsequently, perhaps you would like to watch a film, or play games, or continue sipping some delicious beverage as the country slips by in darkness, until you see fit to retire to your room and fall asleep to the soothing sounds and sensations of the train rumbling ever forward towards its destination. And the next morning, begin again.

Yes, it is that nice.

Some of the highlights of this trip, and the things that really set train travel apart from other modern forms of transit, are the service, the scenery, and the opportunities that one gets to meet all manner of folk during the journey. One instantly befriends other passengers, and at every meal you are seated with different groups of people, so it is inevitable to learn about the travels, life stories, and future destinations of those with whom you travel.

Early on in our route, my father and I met a lovely young gentleman of eleven years who was traveling with his grandmother. They were from a town near ours, and traveling east on an educational trip for his studies. He was home schooled by his grandmother and she had planned visits to the Capitol, Mount Vernon, Monticello, and various other places that are brimming with historic significance. We had a fabulous time together throughout the trip, and I even helped them start their own blog to document their experiences to share with their family. I named it The Best Field Trip Ever. We also met someone who we were sure was a Russian spy, a man who claimed to be a genuine cowboy, a couple on holiday from New Zealand, a business man who splits his time between Colombia, Israel, and the States, and an older couple who have been crossing the country by rail together for over thirty years due to their mutual fear of flying, among others.

I could write for days just about the views of the countryside, but I could never do them justice. The train passes not only through highly developed capitals and metropolises, but also through wild natural areas that are relatively undeveloped and frontier-like. In the Sierras the train passed through narrow paths engulfed by pine trees, and along precipices over alpine lakes. We later spent hours following the Colorado River along the bottom of canyons and gorges with no human development in sight. We passed tiny mining towns, quaint farms, and big cities. We saw a herd of elk, a llama ranch, and the cowboy claimed he saw both a bear and a velociraptor, which I find hard to believe.

Do not fear the onset of claustrophobia or cabin fever for extended train travel either, for at various well-spaced intervals the train stops for quite enough time to get out, breathe some fresh air, and even explore a bit. At one stop, I got into a snowball fight with a porter and my young studious friend. At another, we visited a gift shop cleverly disguised as a railroad museum. In Denver, we had a whole hour you wander about the downtown area, and I bought a homeless youth a burrito.

While I do not foresee Amtrak winning any awards for innovative or inspiring culinary practices, the food was by all means passable, and varied enough that we had not sampled the whole menu before our arrival in Washington. And what really makes the dining experience is the Dining Car staff, who are quirky, chatty, and helpful, and the opportunity to share each meal with a new stranger, depending solely on chance or providence, whichever you choose.

And, as an added and unforeseen benefit that we experienced upon our arrival, we completely avoided any of the dreaded jet lag that usually accompanies long distance travel. And the only train lag that I experienced was a strong desire to continue traveling in that pleasing and unhurried manner, never to be subjected to traffic jams or airport security again. For the next time I am forced to leave the continent, I eagerly look forward to the construction of the Transpacific Railroad.

Lisa Markuson can rarely be tied down for more than a fortnight, and is happiest on the road: preferably the railroad. She studied International Relations in San Francisco, comparative languages in Mexico, Egypt, and Europe, and has worked as a writer, tour guide, concierge, maid, pig farmer and PR representative on three continents. She is currently compiling research for an upcoming guide to traveling by rail throughout North America, and has been documenting her findings on her blog, Provincial Supertramp, as she goes.

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